Dovrefjell is the high, open mountain plateau that the E6 and the Dovre railway cross between Dombås and Oppdal. Most travellers see it through a windscreen or a train window on the way to Trondheim.
Stop for a day or two and it becomes one of the most rewarding hiking areas in Norway. You can climb a peak above 2,000 metres, walk among wild reindeer country and, with a bit of patience, watch musk oxen grazing on the tundra.
This guide covers the main walks in Dovrefjell, from the short path to the reindeer pavilion at Hjerkinn to the full day on Snøhetta, plus how to see musk oxen safely.
Where Dovrefjell is and why it feels different
Dovrefjell sits in the middle of southern Norway, where Innlandet meets Trøndelag. Much of the high ground is protected in Dovrefjell–Sunndalsfjella National Park, established in 2002.
The landscape is not the steep fjord scenery many visitors expect. It is wide, rolling and treeless, with lichen-covered ridges, braided rivers and a big sky. On a clear day you can see Rondane to the south-east.
That openness is the appeal, but it also means there is little shelter. Wind, fog and summer snow are normal up here, and the weather can turn within an hour.
The two main gateways are Hjerkinn, at the top of the pass, and Kongsvoll, a little further north in the Drivdalen valley. Both have train stations on the Dovre line, so a car-free trip is realistic.
Snøhetta: the classic summit hike
Snøhetta is the big draw. Its main summit, Stortoppen, reaches 2,286 metres, which makes it the highest mountain in Norway outside Jotunheimen.
The standard route starts at Snøheim, a staffed lodge run by the Norwegian Trekking Association (DNT). From there it is about 6 km one way to the top, with roughly 800 metres of climbing.
Most hikers need six to eight hours for the round trip, including breaks. The path is well marked with cairns and iron posts, and the gradient is steady until the final section, which is steep and full of large boulders.
Those boulders can be slippery after rain, and snowfields often linger on the upper slopes well into summer. Sturdy boots with good grip are worth more here than anything else in your pack.
If the weather allows, many people add the short walk across to Midttoppen, the middle summit. The ridge narrows there and the view over the rest of the massif is excellent.
The traverse beyond, towards Hettpiggen, is another matter. It involves exposed scrambling and is a job for experienced mountaineers with the right equipment.
One rule matters a great deal on Snøhetta: stay on the marked main path. The surrounding area is important wild reindeer habitat, and hikers are asked not to spread out across the mountain.
Getting to Snøheim by shuttle bus
The gravel road from Hjerkinn to Snøheim is closed to private cars, so almost everyone arrives on the DNT shuttle bus. It leaves from the yard at Hjerkinnhus, beside the Norwegian Wild Reindeer Centre, and takes about 30 minutes.
In 2026 the bus ran from 26 June to 4 October, with five departures a day and a one-way adult fare of 129 kroner. Dates and times change from year to year, so check the current timetable with DNT or Nor-Way before you plan.
When you book, choose Hjerkinnhus as the stop, not the junction on the E6. Bikes are not allowed on the bus, and there is a daily fee for parking at Hjerkinnhus.
For an easier summit day, consider spending a night at Snøheim. You can start early, beat the afternoon cloud that often builds over the peak, and catch the bus back the following day.
Viewpoint Snøhetta: the easy walk from Hjerkinn
Not every day in Dovrefjell needs to be a big one. The walk to Viewpoint Snøhetta, also called Tverrfjellhytta, is short, gentle and still feels like a proper mountain outing.
From the car park north-west of Hjerkinn, a wide gravel path climbs about 1.5 km to the pavilion, with roughly 120 metres of ascent. Most people reach it in 20 to 30 minutes.
Slate slabs set into the ground along the way tell the story of Dovrefjell and its wild reindeer. At the top, the timber-and-glass pavilion designed by the architecture firm Snøhetta looks straight across the plateau to the mountain itself.
The pavilion is normally open from 1 June until mid-October, and it has now closed for the 2026 season, with reopening planned for June 2027. The road up to the car park is closed in winter, and you cannot camp or stay overnight in a motorhome there.
Musk ox safari in Norway: where and how
Dovrefjell is the only place in Norway with a wild musk ox population. The animals were brought here from Greenland, first in 1932 and then again between 1947 and 1953, after the original herd had died out.
The national park counted about 240 animals in the winter of 2019, and the numbers vary from year to year with disease, harsh winters and other pressures.
The easiest way to see them is a guided musk ox safari. Local operators run walks from places such as Dombås, Kongsvoll and Oppdal, mainly in summer and early autumn.
A Dombås musk ox safari makes sense if you are arriving by train from Oslo, as Dombås is a junction on the main line.
If you prefer to go on your own, the signposted Musk Ox Trail near Kongsvoll is the place to start. It offers circular walks from about 4.5 to 15 km, starting from Kongsvoll or Grønbakken.
Some loops go through birch forest and others over bare mountain. A side trip to the Høgsnyta viewpoint, at 1,320 metres, often gives the best chance of spotting animals.
The musk ox code of conduct
Musk oxen look calm, even sleepy, but they do not run away from threats the way deer do. They stand their ground and may charge.
A grown musk ox can weigh around 450 kilos and run at 60 km per hour. The national park recommends keeping at least 200 metres away at all times.
Count the animals in a herd when you first see them, so a hidden bull does not surprise you. Make your presence obvious and never try to sneak closer for a better photo.
If a musk ox paws the ground, shakes its head, snorts or starts sparring with others, it is telling you that you are too close. Back away calmly the way you came.
If one appears on the path ahead, walk in a wide curve around it. Our guide to wildlife safety on the trail has more general advice for encounters with large animals.
Other walks worth your time
Kongsvoll is also the starting point for walks on the eastern side of the E6. Here the trail follows parts of the old pilgrim route between Oslo and Nidaros in Trondheim.
You will not meet musk oxen on that side of the road, but with binoculars you can often see them on the slopes to the west. It is a good option on a day when you want history and valley views rather than a summit.
If you enjoy this kind of high, open terrain, our guide to hiking in Rondane National Park is a natural next step. Rondane lies just to the south-east and shares the same dry, rounded mountain character.
When to go and what to pack
The main hiking season runs from late June to early October, roughly when the Snøheim bus operates. July and August give the most stable conditions, while September brings autumn colours and fewer people.
Even in midsummer, treat Dovrefjell as high mountain country. Pack a windproof shell, a warm layer, a hat, gloves and enough food and water for a full day, as there are few places to buy anything once you leave Hjerkinn or Kongsvoll.
Fog is the most common problem on Snøhetta. If cloud is sitting on the summit or the forecast shows strong wind, turn the day into a walk to the viewpoint or the Musk Ox Trail instead.
Before you set off, read our tips on hiking in bad weather. Starting early, checking the forecast again on the morning itself and being willing to turn back are the habits that keep a Dovrefjell day enjoyable.
Planning a Dovrefjell trip
A simple plan works well for most visitors. Spend one day on the viewpoint walk and a musk ox outing, then give Snøhetta a full second day when the forecast looks settled.
Accommodation ranges from the DNT lodge at Snøheim to mountain inns and campsites around Hjerkinn, Kongsvoll and Dombås. Book ahead in July, when the area is busiest, and you will have the best of Dovrefjell within easy reach.
About Erik Lindqvist
Erik Lindqvist is a Scandinavian trail guide and outdoor writer based in Norway. He has spent fifteen years hiking fjord paths, mountain ridges, and forest tracks across Norway, Sweden, and Iceland.
